The Palace at Kawardha
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The Palace at Kawardha

Kawardha : India | Aug 29, 2011 at 6:29 AM PDT
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Stretches of evergreen forest flank the western edge of the township of Kawardha. Towards the south flows the river Sankari. Baiga tribals form a significant segment of the district’s tribal population; although the erstwhile rulers of Kawardha were Rajputs there has been an assimilation of both cultures.

Italian, British and Mughal architectural styles are all represented in this regal palace of some 56 rooms with a splendid domed and filigreed Durbar Hall. Much of the ground floor of this palace at Kawardha has been converted into a heritage hotel run by the erstwhile royal family. Adding texture and depth to Kawardha’s history is its importance as an erstwhile centre for the movement of the followers of Sant Kabir, a late-15th century poet and revolutionary social reformer. Akbar’s architectural eclecticism coupled with his eclectic curiosity had far-reaching consequences. It was the Emperor himself who sponsored and supported dialogue between adherents of different faiths. Abu’l-Fazl ibn Mubarak, author of the imperial memoir known as the Akbar-nama, notes that Akbar was only 19 when he began to show an unconventional interest in the spiritual matters of his subjects. His pursuit of reason and the practice of open discussion to address problems of social harmony were welcomed by representatives of several new creeds.

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The Palace at Kawardha
It was late afternoon when we arrived for lunch. The owner and his wife graciously gave us company while we ate a delicious meal. When we stepped out into the garden the light was perfect for a visit to one of the nearby villages. Here the women pulled up their sarees between their legs as is the custom in Maharashtra. Their adornments were Baiga-like but this was a Hindu village. The children were at home, having returned from school. We handed out books, pens and sweets, all of which were gladly received.
greenogre01 is based in Bangalore, Karnataka, India, and is a Stringer for Allvoices.
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